Squash Pancakes

Since I've still got a bunch of cooked butternut squash in my fridge, awaiting packaging for the freezer, it was an obvious thing to put into Sunday morning pancakes. I don't know why, but when added to baked goods, squash or pumpkin always seems to have a leavening effect - a particularly nice bonus when combined with whole grain flour.

1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
2 eggs, beaten
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 cup milk
1 cup cooked winter squash or pumpkin, well mashed or pureed
Butter or oil for cooking
Maple syrup for topping

Preheat one or two large skillets over low heat while you put the batter together (thanks to Mark Bittman for this tip).

Combine the whole wheat pastry flour, all purpose flour, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

In a separate bowl, combine the eggs, milk, brown sugar, and squash or pumpkin and mix well. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix well.

Cook the pancakes in butter or oil over medium heat, roughly 3 minutes per side. Keep cooked pancakes warm under a towel or in a low oven.

Serve with maple syrup.

Serves about four.

Storing Winter Squash

It's a bit late in the season for this, but since you asked...

Winter squash and pumpkins store best in a place with moderate humidity and a cool but not cold temperature. For me this meant a cardboard box on a shelf in the mudroom, which is insulated but not heated (though open to the rest of the house). In good condition, squash and pumpkins will keep for several months this way. Some varieties keep better than others (delicata, for example, is not a great keeper; butternut can be very good).

Before storing, make sure you check the squash all over for any sign of bad spots or nicks. Even a small ding, if it breaks the skin, is an opening for bacteria and the squash will go bad. Likewise any spots that are already soft. A squash or pumpkin with any of these should be used promptly. Once in storage, you should check on your squash and pumpkins periodically (every couple weeks maybe; more often if it's convenient) so you can grab any that start to show signs of going bad and use them right away.

The other way to store squash and pumpkin is to cook and freeze it. These last few recipes I have posted have used squash from the freezer. I cook it, mash or puree it, and store it in quart-sized freezer bags in 1-cup quantities (the amount most often called for in baked goods recipes). If you have a squash that's starting to go bad and you aren't going to use it right away, you can preserve it this way.

Maple Pumpkin Muffins

With this recipe, there will be no more winter squash or pumpkin until the fall - this marks the end of my supply. The maple and pumpkin flavors play well together here with neither dominating.

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbsp baking powder
Pinch of cinnamon (optional)
1 egg, beaten
3 Tbsp canola oil
1 cup pureed cooked pumpkin or winter squash
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup maple syrup (preferably grade B)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease tins for 12 standard or 18 smallish muffins.

Combine the flour, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon (if using) in a large bowl. In a smaller bowl, combine the egg, oil, pumpkin or squash, milk, and maple syrup. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix well.

Spoon the batter into the muffin tins, filling each one about 2/3 full. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until muffins are golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Makes 12-18 muffins.

Pumpkin (or Squash) Corn Muffins

I am down to one last package of pureed winter squash/pumpkin in the freezer, which is good because the warmer the weather gets the less desire I have to eat winter vegetables. My tolerance for them does extend a bit longer in desserts and baked goods, though. And these muffins were delicious! As written, the recipe is not too sweet; if you like sweeter muffins, just add more sugar, honey, or maple syrup.

1 1/4 cups cornmeal (preferably stone ground)
3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
3 Tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup pureed cooked pumpkin or winter squash
1/3 cup milk
2 Tbsp canola oil

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease tins for 12 large of 18 medium-sized muffins.

Whisk together the cornmeal, whole wheat pastry flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt in a large bowl.

In a small bowl, combine the eggs, squash, milk, and oil. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients.

Spoon the batter into muffin tins, filling them about two-thirds full.

Bake for 15-20 minutes, until muffins are golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a few muffins comes out clean.

Makes 12-18 muffins.

Maple Squash Pudding

A winter squash (or pumpkin)-based treat for warmer weather, or any time you like pudding. This is quick to make, especially if the squash is already cooked, but needs time to chill. For a richer pudding, substitute cream for a bit of the milk. Serve topped with whipped cream and/or a little pinch of cinnamon if you want to jazz it up.

3 eggs, beaten
2 1/2 cups milk (whole is best, but use what you like)
2 cups pureed cooked winter squash or pumpkin
1/3 cup maple syrup (grade B is best)
1 tsp vanilla extract (optional but good)
Pinch of salt
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp butter

Combine the eggs, milk, squash, maple syrup, vanilla extract, and salt in a large bowl and whisk until smooth.

Place the flour in a Dutch oven and put it on the stove. Turn on the heat and whisk in the squash mixture. Continue to whisk constantly over medium heat until all lumps are gone. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, for about 10 minutes, until the mixture thickens.

Pour the pudding into the serving dish or dishes of your choice (one large or else individual). Cover and refrigerate until chilled. If you want to avoid a skin forming on the top, place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pudding.

Serves about 6.

Pumpkin Spice Pancakes

I was going to call these Fall Harvest Pancakes, which they more or less are, but it seemed a little odd given that it's February... Anyway, they make lovely use of pumpkin (or winter squash), apples, and maple syrup. Other local ingredients: eggs, milk, wheat - not bad. Yum!

1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground ginger
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup pureed pumpkin (or winter squash)
1/4 cup brown sugar (skip if using very sweet squash)
1/2 cup milk
Applesauce for topping, warmed
Maple syrup for topping

Combine the flour, baking powder, baking sold, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger in a large bowl.

In a smaller bowl, combine the eggs, pumpkin, brown sugar, and milk. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix well. The batter will be relatively thick, with a fluffy texture.

Cook the pancakes in oil or butter in a skillet over low-medium heat, 3-4 minutes per side. Keep cooked pancakes warm in a low oven or on plate covered with a towel.

Top with applesauce and maple syrup at the table.

Serves 3-4.

Winter Squash with Roasted Garlic

This is both incredibly good and incredibly easy. I have served it at Thanksgiving and watched it all disappear, but it's also good for any other time as well. This recipe makes enough to serve about 4 (maybe 6 if you have a large menu), but it is easily expanded.

1 medium butternut squash or equivalent
1 head roasted garlic, cloves separated and peeled
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the squash in half the long way and scoop out the strings and seeds. Place the squash cut side down in a baking pan with about 1/4 inch of water in the bottom. Bake for 45-60 minutes, until squash is tender (test by piercing it with a fork or knife).

When squash is done, allow it to cool until you can comfortably handle it. Scoop the flesh out of the skin and mash. Add the garlic and either mash it all well together or puree. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serves about 4.

Thanksgiving Pie Ideas

Pie for Thanksgiving is a big deal in my family, especially on my husband's side. Not only does there need to be plenty for the big day, with family sticking around all weekend, there needs to be plenty of leftovers! Apple and pumpkin are non-negotiable necessities and not to be messed with, but we always do at least a couple other kinds as well and there is always room for a little creativity. Peach, blueberry, and cherry are all frequent additions to the table. Last year I made a triple cranberry meringue pie (I think I found the recipe on the New York Times website), which was quite tasty but involved too many steps to make again for a holiday where food prep time is at a premium. Here are some other ideas to jazz things up without straying too far from tradition:

1. For apple pie, add a handful of cranberries
2. For pumpkin pie, add minced candied ginger or substitute maple syrup for some or all of the sugar
3. For peach pie, add some minced fresh or candied ginger
4. For peach, cherry, or berry pies, top with streusel topping instead of pastry crust
5. Mix apple and pear in a pie, or apple, pear, and poached quince
6. Mix different berries in one pie (e.g. blueberry, strawberry, and blackberry)
7. For berry, cherry, or peach pie, add a teaspoon of almond or hazelnut extract to the pastry dough
8. Combine peaches with blueberries or blackberries

And, of course, don't forget to have plenty of Snow's or Bart's ice cream on hand for the a la mode part. Vanilla is classic, of course, but we have found that Snow's ginger goes really well with most fruit pies - skeptical relatives have been converted!

Butternut Polenta with Shiitake Tomato Sauce

This is sort of a sneaky squash dish - the flavor is subtle, so children and other suspicious parties might not realize it's there. But it adds a pleasantly sweet note to the polenta here. You could easily serve the polenta on its own as a side dish (Thanksgiving idea?); here I topped it with sauce for a main dish. If you do that, stir in a little grated Parmesan with the squash. (Likewise, the sauce would be be good over pasta, too.) I used butternut squash because the flesh is smooth, but you could substitute another variety of your choice. You could also toss some cooked beans or chicken into the sauce to make it a bit more substantial.

Paul Lagreze of New England Wild Edibles told me that we are rapidly nearing the end of his shiitake season, so if you spot any be sure to snap them up. They won't be back until the spring.

Polenta
3 cups water
1 tsp salt
1 cup polenta cornmeal (or other coarse cornmeal)
1 1/2 - 2 cups cooked butternut squash, well mashed
1/4 tsp dried sage (or more to taste)

Sauce
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, minced
5-6 cloves garlic, minced
4 oz. shiitakes, thinly sliced
3-4 cups chopped tomatoes (1 28-oz can or frozen equivalent; if using frozen whole tomatoes, thaw and drain first)
1/2 tsp dried sage
Salt and pepper to taste
Grated Parmesan for topping

Make the sauce first, so it can simmer while you cook the polenta. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or deep skillet. Add the shallot and garlic and saute over medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes. Add the shiitakes and saute until tender, another 3-5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, sage, and salt and pepper and simmer over low heat.

To make the polenta, bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan (nonstick makes for easy cleanup). Add the salt, then slowly whisk in the cornmeal. Immediately lower the heat and continue to stir, switching to a spoon. Be careful not to get burned as bubbles pot and spit. Cook until the polenta thickens nicely, then remove from heat and stir in the squash and sage.

Serve in bowls, with a generous helping of sauce over a scoop of polenta. Top with Parmesan at the table.

Serves about 4.

Pizza with Squash, Black Beans, and Goat Cheese

This is a great use for leftover black beans that are already cooked and well seasoned. It's fine if they have some other ingredients mixed in, like onions and peppers.

1 14-inch pizza crust
olive oil
1 cup cooked black beans
1 tsp lemon juice
1 hot pepper, minced (frozen is fine) or chili flakes to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (or 1-2 thawed cubes from the freezer)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup cooked mashed winter squash or pumpkin
3 oz. crumbled goat cheese
2-3 oz. shredded mozzarella (optional)

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Paint the pizza crust lightly with olive oil.

Toss the beans with the lemon juice, hot pepper, cilantro, salt and pepper. Spread the squash over the pizza crust, then top with the bean mixture. Dot with goat cheese, then top with the mozzarella.

Bake for about 15 minutes, until the crust is done and the cheese just begins to brown.

Serves 3-4.

Pumpkin Bars

This recipe comes from my friend Amy, who got it from her mom - original source unknown. Winter squash should work fine in place of the pumpkin. I think I may experiment with it a little, but for now, here's the recipe as it came to me. Note that this calls for either one large pan or two smaller ones. If desired, you can frost these with cream cheese frosting. The result is really more like a moist cake than a bar, but tasty.

4 eggs, beaten
1 cup vegetable oil
2 cups sugar
1 3/4 cups cooked mashed/pureed pumpkin
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground cloves

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and grease either a 12x18-inch pan or else one 9x13 pan and one 8x8 pan.

Combine the eggs and vegetable oil in a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and pumpkin.

Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves in a medium bowl and whisk together.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and blend well. Our the batter into the greased pan(s) and bake for 25-30 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean.

Thai Pumpkin Soup

This was definitely a winner, with both the husband and the two-year-old coming back for thirds.

Feel free to substitute winter squash for the pumpkin. Butternut or any other fairly smooth-fleshed squash would be a good choice. If you have the cooked squash on hand already, this soup goes together quite quickly. Thai curry paste is very flavorful, but also spicy, so calibrate the amount to your heat tolerance.

Canola oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium onion, chopped
1-2 Tbsp minced ginger root
1-3 tsp Thai red curry paste
5 cups cooked pumpkin or winter squash
1 14-oz can coconut milk (light is fine)
Water or stock (chicken or veggie)
1 Tbsp Thai fish sauce (optional but recommended)
Salt to taste
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped cilantro

Heat a little canola oil in a soup pot. Add the garlic, onion, and ginger and saute until tender, about 4-5 minutes. Add the curry paste and saute for another minute or so, stirring to combine. Remove from heat.

In a food processor, combine the squash and onion mixture and process until smooth, adding a little water as needed. You may need to do this in batches. Pour the squash mixture back into the soup pot. Stir in the coconut milk and add water or stock until the soup reaches your desired consistency (I go for a medium thickness myself). Stir in fish sauce, salt, and cilantro and heat through.

Serves 4-6.

Freezing Pumpkin and Squash for Baking

I just roasted a bunch of winter squash, which I plan to use in a few different squash-based dishes over the next few days (stay tuned!). But I think I'll also freeze some of it for use in baking. This is a handy way to have cooked pumpkin or winter squash available for use in muffins, pancakes, cookies, etc. in the just the right quantities.

Cook your squash and cool completely. Scoop squash flesh out of the skin and mash or puree. Then measure out in the quantities called for by your favorite recipes (often 1 cup) and freeze in quart size freezer bags, flattened out so they can be tidily stacked in the freezer (just like with pesto). You can thaw a bag of squash in a bowl of warm water in 10 minutes or so, about the time you would need to combine dry ingredients or preheat the oven.

Mom's Pumpkin Pie

I have always made pumpkin pie by this recipe, which comes from my mother. It's very good, but I think this year I might experiment a little bit, perhaps starting by using local cream in place of the evaporated milk. This pie freezes nicely after baking.

2 cups cooked mashed pumpkin or other winter squash
¼ cup white sugar
¼ cup brown sugar
½ tsp salt
1 ½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground nutmeg
½ tsp ground cloves
2 large eggs
1 12-ounce can evaporated whole milk
1 deep 10-inch pie crust or 2 shallow 8- or 9-inch crusts (unbaked)

Preheat the oven to 400°.

In a large bowl with high sides, combine the pumpkin, white sugar, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves with an electric mixer on medium speed.

Add the eggs and evaporated milk to the bowl with the pumpkin and continue to mix on medium speed until everything is well combined.

Pour the pumpkin filling into the piecrust(s).

Bake the pie(s) for about 50 minutes, until a knife inserted halfway between the center and the edge comes out clean. Cook on a rack.

Makes 1 deep 10-inch pie or 2 shallow 8- or 9-inch pies. Serves 8-10.

Pumpkin Ginger Bread

This is one of my favorite fall and winter treats. I always make this as a bread, but it's just as easy to make as muffins--just shorten the baking time (how much depends on the size of your muffins). I know that ginger is hardly a local product, but the pumpkin, milk, and eggs can be.

1 ½ cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 ½ tsp cinnamon
1 tsp dried ginger
½ tsp nutmeg
¼ tsp ground cloves
1 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
¼ tsp baking powder
2 large eggs
1/3 cup milk
½ tsp vanilla extract
1/3 cup vegetable oil
¾ cup brown sugar
1 cup mashed cooked pumpkin (or other winter squash)
½ cup chopped candied ginger

Preheat the oven to 350˚. Grease and flour a 9x5-inch loaf pan.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, salt, baking soda, and baking powder.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs, then add the milk, vanilla, and oil and whisk together. Add the brown sugar and whisk until it is well blended. Add the pumpkin and whisk until fully blended. Stir in the candied ginger.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients. Fold together gently until just mixed.

Pour the batter into the loaf pan. Bake for 60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Let the bread cool in the pan for a few minutes before removing, then cool the rest of the way on a rack.

Makes one loaf.

Variation: Substitute dried cranberries for the candied ginger.